Daemon4x4 - 4x4 & Off Road Technical Board

Daemon4x4 - 4x4 & Off Road Technical Board

  • [ You are not logged in ]
  • Members online: 0
Icon - Increase font size Icon - Decrease font size Icon - Reset font size

All fields which are not marked as optional are required. They must be completed before the form can be submitted.

[ Those fields requiring attention are highlighted. ]

 

#106-03-2012 14:07:06

@Gay Bear

May well flush the system again in a couple of weeks and perhaps run some cleaner through as well but only if I can come up with a better bleed valve mod.
What type of bleed setup are you running at the moment, and what problems are you having when refilling the coolant system?

#206-03-2012 14:19:09

Re: @Gay Bear

Also, 3mm inner I.D is a nice tight fit. 4mm works fine too. Wouldn't use the 4mm unless you can get 3mm thick wall though. The 2mm wall thickness leaves 4mm I.D hose feeling just a tad borderline on strength, but is a perfectly fine wall thickness for the 3mm hose.

#308-03-2012 17:19:44

Re: @Gay Bear

If I could work out how to post pics I could show you ,but it is the 1/2" water pipe drain valve type.(I blatantly copied it I hasten to add)
The problem is all my fault as I am probably like some/most owners constantly fussing about is it going to overheat and go pop that when I do up the drain cock I really wrench it up and in doing this I have fcuked up the fibre washer ,which means that every time I use it I have to strip out the barrel and poke out the washer and then [ Dyslexic swearing ] around cutting up a new washer to fit.Then put it all back together and then tighten it up too much......

What I would like would be to fashion up a Tee piece with a 19mm inlet for the inlet and a 13mm outlet to go to to heater valve and then on the tee a ball valve with a outlet of 13mm .My reasoning for the ball valve is that even I should be able to open and shut it without having to fix it every time I use it.


Did the silicone hose in 3mm
Thanks

#408-03-2012 22:10:14

Re: @Gay Bear

So what do you actually use the valve for? Do you refill from that point, or just use it to bleed air from the system?

If you go about filling the system correctly, you'll never encounter persistent airlocks anyhow, (there'll always be an initial, small amount of air in the system after a refill, but that's easily removed without further intervention), so likely changing your filling methodology would be of most benefit. I have a dual valve fitted on mine, (a specific air bleed valve and a fill valve), but to be honest, I've never needed use the thing out of necessity. It just sits there looking nice. big_smile

#509-03-2012 07:04:13

Re: @Gay Bear

Valve is used for filling.
The method I use is two cut off coke bottles one connected via hose to my bleed valve by the heater valve the other runs to the thermostat cap,both held up high and coolant in both
Engine run upto temp and all coolant hoses squeezed till and left running till no more bubbles

#609-03-2012 16:21:35

Re: @Gay Bear

Gawd, you don't half do it the hard way. big_smile You'll be hard pushed to get any type of ball valve setup which isn't a tad heavy for the application. You could always use an isolation valve or similar, as they're not too bad on bulk and weight, but personally, I think you'd be literally introducing unreliability into the system, going with the scenario you have in mind.

You'd be better off just filling the system correctly, and leaving that inplace as a secondary measure if necessary, which is what it technically is.

Filling the system, (through the rad cap opening), slowly, is the key to success. If you use a small or narrow neck funnel, you physically can't fill the system too quickly, which is how most air is introduced into the coolant system. Fill the expansion tank to half full, (physically half full, not half between low and full), and then go for a quick run of around half to one mile, just to get the system upto temp, or thereabouts. It won't get hot enough to cause the expansion tank to overflow, but it will pressurise the system enough to draw any extra coolant necessary back into the system as it cools. Then, just monitor the levels for a couple of days, topping up via the rad cap and topping up the expansion tank if necessary. You shouldn't actually need to add any extra if you've done everything correctly. That last step is merely a precaution. Plus, any residual extra coolant in the expansion tank is fine. Anything above what is needed will just get dumped out of the overflow, if you've overly filled it.

#709-03-2012 16:26:20

Re: @Gay Bear

Btw, not that I ever really need an excuse for a gratuituous picture shot, big_smile but:

http://daemon4x4.org/board/gallery/3/1258395130bleed_adaptor_mkii_1.jpg

Have I ever posted that before? whistle big_smile

#809-03-2012 20:47:38

Re: @Gay Bear

Icon - Post link Matt wrote:

Btw, not that I ever really need an excuse for a gratuituous picture shot, big_smile but:

http://daemon4x4.org/board/gallery/3

Have I ever posted that before? whistle big_smile
Shiny   cool
Display⁄Hide tags
Tag on Bebo Tag on BlinkList Tag on Connotea Tag on Del.icio.us Tag on Digg Tag on Diigo Tag on Facebook Tag on Google Tag on Linkedin Tag on Mister Wong Tag on MSN Live Tag on Myspace Tag on Newsvine Tag on Reddit Tag on Spurl Tag on StumbleUpon Tag on Technorati Tag on Twitter Tag on Yahoo