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#127-03-2013 17:31:03

Caustic soda

Just wanted to have a quick brain pick of the ones on here who know far better than I regarding this stuff. I'm planning on having a whirl with a solution to see how it fares with stripping paint, but wanted to check on the safety side of things and such first. The crystal/powder I've picked up is classed as greater than 90% pure SH.

1) What type of concentration ought be used for effective stripping purposes, without being overly concentrated to the point where it would have no further beneficial effect?

2) From what I can gather, tin, lead, aluminium, zinc and copper and copper alloys are all affected to some degree by it. Are there any other metals it's likely to cause problems with?

3) Fumes. Is it like ammonia in that less than desirable fumes are released, or is it quite safe in that regard, once a solution?


Cheers muchly. smile

#227-03-2013 17:49:56

Re: Caustic soda

hmm

Firstly caustic soda is sodium hydroxide - NaOH, HS is hydrogen sulphide and is what FoulArse produces in liberal quantities  wink

No idea on strengths for stripping purposes BUT it will release noxious fumes so you want decent ventilation


cool

#327-03-2013 18:03:13

Re: Caustic soda

Icon - Post link Predictable Bob wrote:

hmm

Firstly caustic soda is sodium hydroxide - NaOH, HS is hydrogen sulphide and is what FoulArse produces in liberal quantities  wink
Honestly... That's why I wrote SH, not HS. You getting to that age where your sight's failing Bob? whistle big_smile


No idea on strengths for stripping purposes BUT it will release noxious fumes so you want decent ventilation
That's a bugger. Would be using the solution in the shed, so that could be a problem if there are fumes.

#427-03-2013 18:41:22

Re: Caustic soda

lol

Trust me - thought you were pretending to be a chemist !

Anyway you should be ok if you hold your breath

devil

#527-03-2013 18:47:45

Re: Caustic soda

But your shed is just a big hole where the garden used to be isn't it?    whistle

#627-03-2013 19:21:42

Re: Caustic soda

Bwaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaahaaaaaaa !!!

#727-03-2013 20:21:01

Re: Caustic soda

Icon - Post link meooo wrote:

But your shed is just a big hole where the garden used to be isn't it?    whistle
troll big_smile

Icon - Post link Predictable Bob wrote:

lol

Trust me - thought you were pretending to be a chemist !
Nah. I just wrote Sodium Hydroxide to try and cut down on the amount of typing required, but after having to compose an extra couple of posts due to some blind old fart, I think that may have been a counter-productive exercise. devilish


Anyway you should be ok if you hold your breath

devil
Cheers, mate. big_smile

#827-03-2013 20:25:57

Re: Caustic soda

Still using the brake fluid for stripping at the moment. It does a good job of loosening paint, but it's the time it takes which I'm trying to cut down on. This being the most recent example:

http://daemon4x4.org/board/gallery/3/1364413495bow_orig.jpg

There's just so many layers of paint, and with it being industrial type paints combined with a rough cast finish, took nigh on a week to get all of the old paint off that. There's still the rest of the machine to sort yet though. That's the small bit. big_smile That bit looks quite nice now in Mid Brunswick Green though.

#927-03-2013 20:34:01

Re: Caustic soda

I couldn't reccomend it enough. You need to research dilution strengths though. The acid salts will though affect nigh on all metals. And FFS don't do it in a confined space. The fumes are noxious and can permanently damage your innards.

#1027-03-2013 20:34:06

Re: Caustic soda

Forget it Matt, caustic soda is useless at stripping anything thicker than 2 microns.

Nitromors paint/varnish remover (green can) is what you need.

#1127-03-2013 20:55:00

Re: Caustic soda

Icon - Post link Bushwhacker wrote:

Nitromors paint/varnish remover (green can) is what you need.
Seriously? Still trying to decide whether you're on a wind-up or not. big_smile Thought they'd removed Methylene Chloride, (full words this time so that Bob doesn't misread them again devilish), from Nitromors and the like, or do they still use it in that specific product? Had thought of trying MC rather than caustic, but it seems neither of them are exactly saints to be around. Caustic took precedence just due to it seemingly having more desirable qualities, plus it's cheaper. big_smile


Icon - Post link gwh200 wrote:

I couldn't reccomend it enough. You need to research dilution strengths though. The acid salts will though affect nigh on all metals. And FFS don't do it in a confined space. The fumes are noxious and can permanently damage your innards.
I'm definitely sensing from the replies that this is an outside job only. big_smile What effect will the acid salts tend to have on iron based metals?


Cheers.

#1227-03-2013 21:04:04

Re: Caustic soda

hmm

Nitromors is still dichloromethane from what I remember but I don't know whether it's full strength - from a health point of view I'd go for the caustic every time


cool

#1327-03-2013 21:06:31

Re: Caustic soda

Light a big bonfire in your hole, chuck in all the ironwork you want stripping, together with a couple of well wrapped spuds. Wait for fire to die down, retrieve and eat jacket spuds. Wait for fire to go out (probably next morning) retrieve the now stripped ironwork  simples  devilish



Advise against putting electrical itmes in the fire ... they won't like it  smile

#1427-03-2013 21:28:17

Re: Caustic soda

Icon - Post link Predictable Bob wrote:

hmm

Nitromors is still dichloromethane from what I remember but I don't know whether it's full strength - from a health point of view I'd go for the caustic every time

cool
Cheers Bob. One other point I forgot to ask about. Does the caustic solution need to be warm for it to be effective? There seems to be a lot of conflicting information on that point, so I'm guessing it's merely more effective when the solution is warm?


Icon - Post link meooo wrote:

Light a big bonfire in your hole, chuck in all the ironwork you want stripping, together with a couple of well wrapped spuds. Wait for fire to die down, retrieve and eat jacket spuds. Wait for fire to go out (probably next morning) retrieve the now stripped ironwork  simples  devilish
Only problem is that I'd never be able to hoist the buggers back out. big_smile I'm even having to skip the full blown derusting and having to do it manually due to the coming bits being so damned heavy and bulky. big_smile

#1527-03-2013 21:32:08

Re: Caustic soda

hmm

You're correct about warmer being better but be careful

cool

#1627-03-2013 21:44:09

Re: Caustic soda

So the basic precaution list for using this stuff would be:

1) Don't let it anywhere near any body parts.

2) Good ventilation is a necessity.

3) Always gradually add the lye to water when mixing, rather than vice versa.

Is the problem with heating the solution due to more fumes being generated? When finished, would a thorough water wash be enough to neutralise any remaining residue, or would using a very mild acidic solution as the final rinsing step on the metal be best?

Just trying to make sure i don't drop a bollock if I decide to use this method, (that's if I dare, now that you and Gra have practically made me scared shitless of even being in the same room as it big_smile).

#1727-03-2013 22:27:33

Re: Caustic soda

hmm

The supposed problem is that it can boil and spit - you really wouldn't want to get covered in hot caustic wink  Having said that I used to mix up very strong solutions and never got to that stage


cool

#1827-03-2013 22:28:59

Re: Caustic soda

hmm

A little less strength and a bit more time - like most things rushing it isn't always the best way

big_smile

#1927-03-2013 23:04:09

Re: Caustic soda

I don't know why you need to faff about so much! neutral
You need to successfully strip some ancient paint, (which will probably contain lead by the way)so  just go down to your nearest builder's merchant and pick up a can of Nitromors. Brush it on, (it's thick and clingy) wait approx 30 mins and wire brush off the now disolved paint followed by a rinse in cold water, job done. roll

#2027-03-2013 23:26:32

Re: Caustic soda

Icon - Post link Bushwhacker wrote:

I don't know why you need to faff about so much! neutral
'Cos it's me. big_smile


You need to successfully strip some ancient paint, (which will probably contain lead by the way)so  just go down to your nearest builder's merchant and pick up a can of Nitromors. Brush it on, (it's thick and clingy) wait approx 30 mins and wire brush off the now disolved paint followed by a rinse in cold water, job done. roll
Is the modern stripper still any good though, that specific one you suggested? Last time I tried some Nitromors, it was somewhat less than effective. Barely even touched the paint work which I tried it on. big_smile

#2128-03-2013 00:03:23

Re: Caustic soda

Icon - Post link Matt wrote:

Icon - Post link Bushwhacker wrote:

I don't know why you need to faff about so much! neutral
'Cos it's me. big_smile


You need to successfully strip some ancient paint, (which will probably contain lead by the way)so  just go down to your nearest builder's merchant and pick up a can of Nitromors. Brush it on, (it's thick and clingy) wait approx 30 mins and wire brush off the now disolved paint followed by a rinse in cold water, job done. roll
Is the modern stripper still any good though, that specific one you suggested? Last time I tried some Nitromors, it was somewhat less than effective. Barely even touched the paint work which I tried it on. big_smile
What did the container look like?

#2228-03-2013 00:44:37

Re: Caustic soda

Can't honestly remember.

#2328-03-2013 01:13:41

Re: Caustic soda

If you want to real heavy duty, wash your hands before having a piss paint remover, you can get it from auto paint/bodyshop suppliers.

#2428-03-2013 01:17:24

Re: Caustic soda

Is there a specific brand to ask for, or is it just a case of asking them what they stock?

#2528-03-2013 01:21:08

Re: Caustic soda

Btw, this is how that piece above turned out after a couple of coats of green. No undercoat, and I removed the bits of filler which had been put on to smooth it slightly whilst I was stripping it.

http://daemon4x4.org/board/gallery/3/1364413495bow_painted1.jpg
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